Day 4: DMZ and JSA Tour

Day 4 was definitely one of the highlights of my Korea trip because we would be going on the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) and the JSA (Joint Security Area in Panmunjeom) Tour.

My BF and I are history and war geeks and the Korean War has always been something that we found interesting. The estranged relationship between the North and South intrigues me in a strange way. It makes me really sad to think about the poor people that are in the isolated communist nation of the DPRK (Democratic People's Republic of Korea) as well as those families who were torn apart after the War, doomed to possibly never meet again because of the twisted ways of the DPRK's leader, Kim Jong Un and his father and the man behind it all, his grandfather Kim Il Sung.

I am going to briefly tell you about the history of the Korean War and why there is a demilitarized done separating the two Koreas. (I am going to highlight them in brown so if you don't want to read the history, you can skip it)

Korea was under the Empire of Japan's colonial rule at the end of the Joseon Dynasty monarchy in 1910 and only ended with the end of World War 2 in 1945. The Japanese were harsh and ruthless to the Koreans, mostly by attempting to strip every bit of Korean culture away by imposing strict  Japanese ways. Also, many hundreds of thousands of young girls were forced (abducted, lured) into sexual slavery as "comfort women" to the Japanese soldiers. This is why in Seoul and Busan, there is a statue of a comfort woman right in front of each of the Japanese Embassy, with the one in Busan freshly erected just like week. The Japanese obviously were outraged and want it removed (they've signed an agreement with the South Korean President previously by apologizing and contributing 1 billion yen for a foundation to support the living victims). I feel so strongly for these poor women who must have endured so much pain during WW2, and can't even start to imagine the traumatic life they are living in.

After the Japanese Empire surrendered to Allies on August 15, 1945, they ended their colonization of Korea. Now, Korea was in turmoil because they were suddenly left like a headless chicken. Korea was then divided into two, with the North of the 38th parallel being occupied by the Soviet Union and the North by the United States. The Soviet and Unites States could not come to an agreement of a unified Korea and in 1948, two separate governments were established. The Republic of Korea was in the American zone, while the Democratic People's Republic of Korea was in the Soviet Zone. Both claimed to be the legitimate government for the whole of Korea.

Kim Il-Sung was then appointed as the Soviet-designated premier for the DPRK. Rising to power in the North, he became a cult personality by ambitiously spreading the propaganda of wanting to unify both Koreas, calling himself the "Great Leader" while statues of him started mushrooming.

In 1950, to achieve his ambition of being the Great Leader of a unified Korea, the North made a surprise invasion on the South. North Korea had help and assistance from Stalin (Soviet) and Mao Zedong of China in the form of military guidance, weapons and military support. Stalin did not think that the United States would want to get involved if they invaded Korea but nope, United States did. As the North Korean army pushed into Seoul, the United States readied their troops for a war. Eventually, truce talks took place in 1951 and an armistice was signed in 1953 between DPRK, Chinese People's Volunteers and the UN (who called the shots for the South). 

The war lasted for three years (ended in 1953) and was exceptionally bloody with the death of nearly 5 million people. More than half of those were civilians. 

It is important to note that unlike most wars, they ended with the signing of a peace treaty. The Korean War is technically not "over" because there was no treaty. The Armistice included the terms on the creation of the demilitarized zone and that the two Koreas come to a political negotiation with the withdrawal of the foreign forces from Korea, but yet today, after 64 years, a peaceful settlement between the two Koreas have not been made and American troops still reside in South Korea.

Even after the armistice, there were several run-ins between the North and South, most notably the "Ax Murder Incident" on August 18, 1976 where North Koreans attacked American Army officers, Arthur Bonifas and Mark Barrett at the Joint Security Area (JSA) in the DMZ. Long story short, the Americans wanted to chop down a poplar tree that was obstructing their view of the North, and the North did not like that and after warning the Americans to no avail, they murdered the two American officers and injuring four U.S. soldiers and five South Korean soldiers. Like the name suggests, the North Koreans bludgeoned the Americans to death with axes used for the tree-trimming.

For decades after the armistice, the two Koreas continue to have spies and attacks on each other. One of the recent ones was in 2010 when North Korea had an artillery engagement with the South by firing 170 artillery shells and rockets at Yeonpyeong Island, killing 4 and injuring 19 of both military and civilian subjects. The North did that as a retaliation to the South's artillery exercise in the waters which I believed were not even towards the North direction.

To be honest, I feel that it must be really frightening for those residing in Seoul because they have their lives on stake at any time DPRK decides to attack. Of course, more so for the UN and South Korean soldiers stationed at the DMZ.

Back to the tour, we booked our tours on Seoul City Tour. It was 125,000 Won per person, which is around B$160. The tour included pick up, transport, lunch, English-speaking guides and drop-off at City Hall area, and because we chose the DMZ and JSA tour, it took the entire day from 8AM to around 5PM.

This was our itinerary:

Hotel - ID Check point - Camp Bonifas (Slide show and Briefing) - JSA Tour (Freedom House, Conference room, Bridge of No Return, Ax Murder Incident Area) - Lunch - Imjingak Park - Freedom Bridge - The 3rd infiltration Tunnel - DMZ Theater / Exhibition Hall - Dora observatory - Dorasan Station - Unification Village (Pass by) - Drop off at Hotel President or Koreana Hotel 

However, for some reason, we did not do Bridge of No Return and the Ax Murder Area. Not sure why, nobody asked the guide. When you are on the tour, you won't feel like asking questions because it feels very restrictive and you just don't want to draw attention to yourself.

The Bridge of No Return was a bridge used for POWs who were given the option to either leave or stay in North Korea / South Korea after the Korean War in 1953. After they have crossed it, they would never be allowed to return even if they changed their minds. During this time 13,444 UNC prisoners returned to UNC countries, and 89,493 KPA and CPV prisoners returned to their countries. In March 1953, a further 25,000 KPA soldiers held in ROKA camps had been released into South Korea on President Syngman Rhee's orders in an attempt to wreck the armistice negotiations.

The bus picked us up from the apartment two blocks away at 8:15AM. The DMZ is only an hour away and the guide filled us in on the history of the Korean War on our way there. She also pointed out the barbed wires and areas that had landmines buried into the grounds (that will be set off if any invasion from the North occurs to block off the roads).

We weren't allowed to take photos 3/4 of the time. We were only allowed photos when the guide/ UN soldiers said we could take photos.

We also had other strict rules to follow such as dress codes; you are not allowed to wear ripped jeans, slippers, shorts, military print and exercise clothes because apparently the North will take your photos and spread propaganda stories among themselves saying people outside are poor and cannot afford clothing. We were also given a Visitor Declaration form which we had to sign before entry. The Declaration basically says that you are not allowed to make any contact with anybody from the North, remain in the tour group, and things like that.

Also we were informed prior that if any form of tension is felt in the DMZ, the tour will end immediately and no refund will be processed.

On the way to our destination, we drove pass an arch signboard to the village of Deasong-dong (Unification Village). It is the only civilian habitation within the Southern portion of the DMZ. There are only around 200 residents living here, and they are given large plantation lands and the highest farming income of the nation, get unique benefits are are exempted from the national defense duties and taxes. Men living in the area do not need to do the required 2-year army duties. They however have strict rules of an 11PM curfew and headcount. Residents living there have requirements that they must be descendants of the original inhabitants or to women who marry the men who live there. I found that very interesting to live in a village so dangerous, being watched (protected) by soldiers every minute of the day.

Before we could enter Camp Bonifas, we had to have our passports verified one by one by a UN soldier. South Koreans are not allowed on DMZ tours.

Our first stop of the tour was Camp Bonifas, where we were given the forms to sign and Visitor badges to wear, as well as a quick slide show and briefing about the tour) which lasted for around 25 minutes. We were then led further inside pass the building, into the JSA.

The JSA is the only portion of the DMZ where the North and South Korean forces stand face-to-face to handle diplomatic engagements.

We were given permission to snap photos! The soldiers you see are from the UN (front) and the rest are Republic of Korea (ROK) soldiers. Those facing the other side are watching the North Koreans. If you look closely, there is a concrete slab halfway through the Conference House. That slab determines where the North and South border meets. The white building, Panmungak, belongs to North Korea.

I was terribly sick from the rain at the Ski resort the day before, but I managed to pull through to experience this amazing once-in-a-lifetime experience

If you look at this photo closely, you can see a KPA (Korean People's Army) on the other building from the North staring at us.... There are cctvs everywhere pointed at us too, so undeniably we were all being watched and probably studied to see if we were spies.

It was remarkably tensed, and I felt like a school girl again where I was afraid to even have a toe out of the line. It felt surreal standing there... And seeing what we saw..

The Tour allowed us to enter the Conference Room, which is the blue "house" in the middle.

Technically, from the concrete slab you see that runs through the middle of the Conference House, you can step into North Korea when you are in the Conference House.

Once you are inside, you will be warned not to step behind this ROK soldier because once you do, you are in North Korean grounds and will no longer be under UN/ ROK protection. Scary huh?

ROK soldiers have height requirements, strict army training and have to be experts at martial arts and combat. Here I am, sick and looking like a tiny mouse next to him. The soldier does not move or make any facial expressions and they all wear sunglasses to not share any facial expressions that may provoke the North. They also wear the sunglasses so the North will not be able to read their facial expressions. And of course to intimidate your sweet ass, which worked for me.

We were only allowed a couple of minutes inside so here is a photo of me standing from the North side, and the man with his phone is on the South! It is also at these tables that the North and South forces sit to have political exchanges.

After that point, which is the closest you can get to the North (technically we were in it eh?) from South Korea, we were led back to the Visitor Center where there is a souvenir shop and a small museum upstairs documenting the DMZ and incidents there, there was even a tree bark from the tree that was the epitome of the Axe Incident. However my phone died so I had no photos. -_-

Except this, which is a copy (I assume) of the Armistice agreement signed 

It also had a plaque display of all the countries who were involved in the Korean War, supporting the UN and South Korea, such as Great Britain, Netherlands, Thailand and so many more..

I bought a lot of random stuff from the Souvenir Store here and later at the Imjingak Station. I thought why not, I doubt I will be heading back there and how many people can say they've stepped into North Korea right?

A super fail photo of me and the UN soldier and Mary. He was really good looking, tall and fair. He spoke excellent English. It definitely triggered some memories from the K-drama DOTS!

That concluded our JSA tour and we went to Imjingak Village for our lunch. We had the option of a Bibimbap or Bulgogi. I went for Bulgogi.

Here, we switched guides and got a Captain Han as our guide, a retired military officer.

My bf's Bibimbap, which is vegetarian-friendly (you can refuse the egg). It is basically rice, vegetables, carrots and sauce.

Lunch was OK but I was too sick so I had no appetite at all..............

The Imjingak Village is the furthest Northern point a regular South Korean is legally allowed to go. It is 7KM away from the Military Demarcation Line.

Surrounding Imjingak are several monuments, Unification Park and the North Korea Center.

Picture displays of North Korea

In front of Imjingak is the Gyeongui Train Line which was destroyed during the Korean War in 1950. 

Walking to the end of the bridge, we catch a glimpse of the Bridge of Freedom, where South Koreans crossed when they came back to their Mother Country from North Korea after the signing of the Armistice Agreement

I don't have photos of this but there were also colorful ribbons with hopeful messages written on them tied to the bridge by South Koreans who have friends or families in the North, or have family members who died in the North. 

Here is a photo taken from World Walk About so you get the picture

The next stop of the Tour was the Third Infiltration Tunnel.

The South has discovered four tunnels secretly dug up by the North Koreans that lead right into South Korea. It is believed that there are more tunnels yet to be discovered.

These tunnels are believed to have been built as a secret access to attack South Korea.

The Third Infiltration was discovered in October 1978 following the detection of underground explosions. The incomplete tunnel is 1,635 metres (1.0 mile) long, of 1.95 m (6 ft 5 in) maximum high and 2.1 m (6 ft 11 in) wide. It runs through bedrock at a depth of about 73 m (240 ft) below ground. It was apparently designed for a surprise attack on Seoul from North Korea, and could accommodate 30,000 men per hour along with light weaponry. Initially, North Korea denied building the tunnel. North Korea then declared it part of a coal mine and even had it painted black.

We are not allowed to take photos in the tunnel.

Required to wear helmets, we were warned that the tunnel is not for the claustrophobic. It was also a very tiring walk, especially when you come back because that is one steep slope. I am tiny so I did not really need to lower my head but the tunnel is quite small, but it is lit with lights and had emergency phones throughout. The South Koreans have blocked the actual Military Demarcation Line in the tunnel with three concrete barricades. Tourists can walk as far as the third barricade, and the second barricade is visible through a small window in the third.

Found this photo online from Veltra tour site. This is what it looks like inside the tunnel. You get less oxygen when you're down there so our guide advised us to take breaks when needed.

I was hella tired by the time we were done.

The "This One Earth" (하나 되는 지구) Statue outside the tunnel.
It is one of a number of pro-unification artworks and sculptures found on both sides of the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), the heavily-guarded no man’s land that divides the countries. As with the Statue of Brothers at the War Memorial of Korea, the split earth indicates the sadness of a country torn in two. Here men, women and children on either side of the divide attempt to push the earth back together, in a symbol of peace and forgiveness. -source

This is the mock up of the barricade at the end of the tunnel tour

Back on the tour bus we go to our next stop- the Dora Observatory Tower, which is situated on top of Mount Dora.

For 500Won, we could look into these binoculars and peer into the Peace Village Kijŏng-dong, or more apt the Propaganda Village, a North Korean "village" which is uninhabited village built in the 50s in a propaganda effort to encourage South Korean defection and to house the DPRK soldiers manning the network of artillery positions, fortifications and underground marshalling bunkers that surround the border zone.

We could also see (without any difficulty at all) the third tallest flagpole in the world belonging to none other than North Korea. The history was the South erected one (98.4m tall) so the North built an even taller one at 160m. #Flagpolewarwin

You can see it in the photo above, it is on the right.

A photo with our guide, Captain Han! He was very nice. I don't know why I was looking so scared with all my photos with the soldiers. Sick ah.

He was very nice and lenient with us, he allowed photos at the observatory when I read online that you're not allowed unless you stand behind a line.

A detailed map of the train line, which crosses the Imjin River

Final stop of our tour, the Dorasan Station

It was very moving standing in Dorasan Station. The significance of this station is that there is a train that can take you to North Korea, but it has never been used (trains did run north bound there in 2007 – 2008 for freight across the border to Kaesong. When ties worsened after the closure of Mount Kumang Tourist Zone in 2008 the freight shipments stopped.). This station’s train lines, therefore are used only for those who work or visit the station and head south from it. You can get there from Seoul Station.

The train line was built as a hope for reunification by the South but I guess the North had none of it.
Should the North ever one day opens itself from isolation, it is this train that will be able to connect you to North Korea.

Pyeongyang is the capital city of North Korea

The train station was eerily quiet and empty. It had everything a regular train station would have, custom checkpoints, information counters and such but.. Factually, the train doesn't work, so no processing is done. However, you can purchase Pyeongyang train tickets to basically go nowhere because the train is imaginary.

After that, our cool guide told us to just enter the Unification Platform because there was nobody at the ticket counter (lol)

The deserted train line

One super interesting fact I read was that if the North ever allows entry, people can actually take trains to go to London, Paris, Russia from Korea! It is extremely flabbergasting to know so much can open up if the North chooses to stop being a dick.

Waiting for the midnight train to go to anywhere..

We wandered around the platform for a little bit, there were small exhibitions outside showing the history of the railway. I also almost lost my bf's beanie there.

Our guide recommended we get these DMZ chocolates because they're only sold here and are made of entirely organic ingredients.

I tried them and they're not sweet at all, they're just like regular nut chocolates.

So that was our DMZ/ JSA tour which honestly blew my mind. I am so thankful to have been able to experience the eye-opening tour which really cultivated my curiosity in Korea. The tour definitely moved me, and I always feel emotional whenever I think about the Korean War, and the POWs and civilians involved down to the survivors and their family members living today. It was definitely one of the biggest highlights of my entire trip to Seoul.

I sincerely do hope that the two Koreas unify one day, and remove the use of the DMZ.

This was a lengthy post and I had a lot of research done to make sure information was correct.
I strongly recommend this tour to everyone because it really opens your eyes to what has happened and what is happening to the world. It may not be your nation's history but I believe in humanity and that when a person dies unfairly, it should affect you because we are all just humans after all....

DMZ/ JSA Tour 101:

1. You officially do not enter North Korea so you do not get a stamp in your passport

2. You do not come into contact with anybody from the North, unless the KPA soldiers deliberately come close to the concrete slab to stare at you. But you are not allowed to make any gestures or try any form of communication back to them.

3. Cameras with 90mm zooming lens and above are not allowed.

4. Conan O'Brien went to the JSA as well, so you can get an idea of what the trip is like by watching the video below. Of course you don't mock the soldiers like he did.....

5. Booking has to be done at least 3 -5 days (depending on the tour company) in advanced with full payment. Nobody is allowed to enter the JSA without being brought in by a tour. I booked our tours almost a month in advanced and had to send copies of our passports to the tour agency. This is because certain nationalities require documents prior (like China) and Koreans are not allowed.

6. Children under 11 years old are not allowed on the tour.

7. Do as you're told. The DMZ is an extremely dangerous zone where countless deaths have occurred due to misunderstanding and hasty decisions. Almost anything out of the ordinary will set things off.

We also visited the Korea War Memorial which further fed our hunger for the Korean War history, which I will blog about in my later posts. Xx