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Sunday, January 14, 2018

“If you never visited Tainan, you never really visited Taiwan” - Tainan City government

We arrived in Taipei Taoyuan International Airport Terminal 1 at around 9PM, and there was quite a long line at immigration. We only got out at around 10PM.

After immigration, we went to get our Visitor SIMs (again, for research purposes) in the airport from Chunghwa Telecom. They had many options based on how many days and included credit. They all gave "Unlimited" data. It was pretty easy, we were there for 11 days so we opted up for the 15-Day SIM.

There are two 15-day options, which are only different in terms of the included credit (NT$100 vs NT$200).

This was NT700 (roughly BND$33).

You can reserve the SIM or make your purchase at Taoyuan Airport. There are branches in the airport that open for 24 hours.

More information at their website here.

After getting our SIM Cards, we had to take a shuttle to Taipei Main Station to catch the HSR (High Speed Rail) to Tainan.

We were instructed to wait at Stand 12 for Bus 705. We wanted to get tickets at the counter but the lady told us to pay in the bus. I can't remember how much it was, but it was not a lot.


 Our first Taiwan bus experience.. lol

After we got to Taipei Main Station, we queued up to get the tickets for the HSR ride to Tainan. When it got to our turn and we told the counter staff what he wanted, in true TVB fashion, he stood up and told us to RUN! The last HSR for the day was leaving RIGHT NOW!

After a brief questionable second, run we did. We were lucky enough to catch the HSR, but we did not pre-purchase any tickets so we got the unreserved tickets instead. For HSR rides, Unreserved tickets are cheaper than Reserved ones and are usually for late purchases. They are not numbered and you can only sit at Carriages 10-12. If there are no seats, you would have to stand. And that was exactly what we did for our entire trip from Taipei to Tainan! We had to pick tiny corners next to the HSR doors, with our large luggages and lean on the wall for 1.5 hours :(

Hence, advise is to pre-buy your tickets online. I didn't because I wasn't so sure what time we would be done with immigration and be at Taipei main Station, but that is OK because you can change your HSR ticket times.  Also, can someone explain to me why that was the last HSR to Tainan because the website says 11:30PM is the last train, but we were there at around only 10:30PM???????

This was our "ticket" which wasn't really a ticket as we were issued this in the HSR sort of like a consolation thing. It was NT$1150 per person so that was around $55 each.

It was a really uncomfortable ride but we were thankful we got to Tainan that night itself. We reached Tainan station at midnight and back to our hotel (via taxi) at around 12:30AM. We were so worn out after that we almost fell right asleep!

Day 1 in Tainan: Anping (安平) District

We met our friends Mary and Thanis on this trip too! The last time we met them was in Seoul when we went skiing and more :)


Roughly about an hour's taxi ride from where we stayed (around 10 minutes walk from each other), Anping District is a historic town in Tainan and the oldest district in Taiwan. Back in the 17th century when Tainan was known as "Dayuan", has been occupied by the Dutch, Koxinga period, Qing administration and Japanese during the colonial era. Housing multiple historic sites and attractions such as the Anping Fort, Eternal Golden Castle, Anping Tree House and the Old Street, Anping district makes a great day trip!

First things first, our taxi driver dropped us off at this restaurant for their beef soup. She said that it was one of the most popular ones in the area.




Writings on the wall~

Thanis did most of the ordering so I wasn't sure what these below were but I can tell you they were delicious! #notafoodblogger

Beef balls

Tofu

Beef tongue, beef brisket and beef soup #beefbeefbeef

This one I know lah: lu rou fan (Braised Pork Rice) 滷肉飯 :9

closer look at the beef tongue. very tender and juicy!

The restaurant. I reckon you can give it a try if you're big on beef and are visiting Tainan :) The ordering is through a piece of paper with all the dishes (IN CHINESE), and you use a pencil to jot down how many quantities you want. The uncle working in the shop was quite friendly and informed us that some stuff we wanted like noodles weren't available as they were only in the lunch menu.

After our brunch, we went to the first historic site on our Anping Day out:
the 1) Anping Tree House

Purchasing tickets at the ticket booth

We got the 5-site pass for NT 150 (approximately BND $7) each. The 5-site pass allowed us access to the Anping Tree House, Chihkan Tower, Anping Fort, Eternal Golden Castle and Navy Destroyer Museum. It was a pretty good deal because we did cover all 5 of those sites in that one day!

We got coffee at the Tree House Cafe the moment we got in. Frankly I didn't read up about Tainan before going so I didn't know what to expect.

I thought that this banyan tree was it LOL #fail


But no, the Anping Tree House, is originally the warehouse of Tait & Co.

During the Japanese Occupation, it was used as the office and warehouse of the Salt Association of Japan, with the Taiwan Salt Company assuming control after World War II in 1945. Later, the salt industry in Anping declined, and the warehouse was abandoned. Today, the aerial roots and branches of banyan trees wrapped around the building, combined with the ruined red bricks, create an unusual and beautiful sight. Foreigners were barred from trading in Taiwan for most of the Qing dynasty, but the 1858 Treaty of Tianjin forced open four harbors in Taiwan to foreign traders. Anping was one of them. There were five big foreign trading companies in Anping in that era, of which only the buildings of Tait & Co. and Julius Mannich & Co. remain.
-excerpt from taiwannews





After that, wewent to the
2) Tower (Fort Provintia)

The Chihkan Tower, also known as Fort Provintia was a Dutch outpost built in 1653 during the Dutch colonization of Taiwan used as the administration centre. Its original name was Provintia which means “eternity” in Dutch.

More info here


Next up:
3) Anping Old Fort (Old Fort Zeelandia)

Again built by the Dutch during the Dutch Occupation, the Fort has seen many exchange of ownership from the Dutch to the Koxinga and then to the Japanese. Due to that, the Fort isn't really exactly a fort anymore as there have been many attempts to rebuild it. The one existing now was rebuilt by the Kuomintang as a tourist site. There is an observation tower, a statue of Koxinga, remnants of two bastions and 70-metre long stretches of both the north and south outer walls of the original Fort.

The entrance to the Old Fort


View from the top of the observation tower


Statue of Koxinga (know more about the legendary man here)

We did a lot of walking in Anping as the sites were all walk-able from each other. Here are some Anping Old Street pictures:










I absolutely adored bubble tea in Taiwan. Any random stall would serve good bubble tea!

Fried wantan and prawn fritters 


The restaurant had 胡瓜 on the wall, don't mess!


My BF absolutely detested the smell of the Smelly Tofu 😂 

Smelly tofu is a type of fermented tofu with a strong odor which is apparently "hard on the nose, but easy on the tongue". You can normally smell the stench of it from afar as they're usually sold in stalls like the above out in the open in Taiwan. It is a cherished delicacy in Taiwan but we avoided it like plague LOL

Forgot what this is called, but it is yam with pork, and something sweet on top which my BF said his grandmother used to make. I didn't like it. Haha I am not adventurous with food at all. Anyone can tell what this is called?

Super random but we walked by this temple and saw Sun Wukong, the Monkey King, and took photos with him (with a small voluntary donation).


For this next stop, I remember cabbing it because it was a bit further off from where we wandered off to:
4) Navy Destroyer Museum (德陽軍艦博物館)

The Deyang Destroyer (ship) served the Taiwanese Navy for 28 years and was decommissioned in 2005. It was then remodeled and opened to visitors in 2011 as a museum ship. The Gearing-class destroyer under the United States navy was also involved in the Vietnam War (which I got to learn a lot about from our last trip to Saigon)  and was renamed as Deyang when it was sold to Taiwan in 1977. The museum was pretty awesome because you could enter almost every nook and cranny of the ship.




You can go to the top and take a photo of the other person on the helipad. We didn't do it because there were so many people but Mary & Thanis managed to get a good shot.


Aye aye, sir!


Video from the top!

Moving on:
5) Eternal Golden Castle (億載金城)

Not long before Taiwan was taken over by the Japanese, the Taiwanese built this fortress as an attempt to keep the Japanese out. Famously (or infamously?) known for taking bricks from the Fort Zeelandia to build, the Eternal Golden Castle was the first modern-era fort built in Taiwan. There is a large central field which was used as practice ground and the fortress was equipped with British "armstrong" cannons which were posted on each bastion along the sea-facing wall.

When the Japanese took over Tainan, the Fortress was abandoned and eventually saw to the cannons being sold off for funding the war in the north. A fortress with no cannons is like a stove without fire (apologies for such an uncool pun, must be hungry- already). In 1976, the government repaired the fort and was renamed as a first-class historic site only in 1983. 



Frankly, the Eternal Golden Castle was the least impressive site we visited that day. Again, with no pre-research on Anping before going (mistake on my part- been slumped at work :(), we didn't know what to expect and were a bit disappointed as it looked like a big empty piece of land with a few cannons to just walk around in. There was a singing competition that was happening the night we were there, so there were a lot of people there having rehearsals, and lots of videographers with fancy cameras walking around.

After that, we took a taxi back. We spent a whole day there from morning to late afternoon and I liked it, particularly from the fact that it is so historic. If I had to pick a favorite site, I would pick the Navy Destroyer Museum because it was pretty interactive how you could go almost everywhere and it was hardly restricted (that I could see, anyway). Definitely worth a day trip!

Til next time, xx

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